THERE are few places in the world as magical as Tarifa.

Where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean and where Africa meets Europe, its lay lines couldn’t be more auspicious.

A historic spot used as the bridgehead for the Moors when they first arrived in Europe in the 8th century, it is crammed full of history and, wonderful architecture.

But best of all is its location, beside the famous Straits of Gibraltar with its views to Africa and inland to the soaring Alcornocales Natural Park.

The trip here from the Costa del Sol is worth the journey alone, the hour drive transporting you to a completely different world, far from the glitzy man-made resorts along the Malaga coast.

Everything from the atmosphere to the people and from the food to the weather is a contrast, and it is the latter specifically  – its celebrated Levante and Poniente winds – that have saved it from the concrete overdevelopment that has pockmarked much of its near neighbours.

Boasting the best, most consistent winds in Europe, it has long been a Mecca for wind and kite surfers and thousands of enthusiasts head here every week from around the continent.

The best place to watch them is at Valdevaqueros, a cool hangout five minutes outside the town, where you can hire all the equipment and take a cocktail, lunch and even stay.

But it is not just the wind that attracts tourists to Tarifa. There are whale watching and scuba diving trips and oodles of opportunities for retail therapy.

Indeed, Tarifa has an abundance of quirky shops selling handicrafts, leather bags, jewellery and musical instruments, as well as pavement cafes touting freshly-baked treats.

There’s a small town beach, Playa Chica, lapped by the Med (and great if the Poniente is blowing a hooley). But the focal point is Calle Alameda, a lively Spanish walkway lined with good restaurants.

Across the road the castle, overlooking the bustling harbour, is fascinating and provides wonderful views of the Straits.

This little fishing town was the first point of the Moorish invasion of southern Spain in AD711, when the Berber chief landed from Ceuta with 400 foot soldiers and 100 horsemen. They built the fort later, in 960AD and stayed for an incredible seven centuries.

No trip to Tarifa would be complete without taking the lovely ride from here to the village of Bolonia, through stunning undeveloped countryside and pine-fringed beaches.

Along the way there is a great selection of fantastic hotels, including the legendary Hurricane and its sister hotel the Punta Sur across the road.

Bolonia takes a very casual, dressed-down approach to tourism. It doesn’t sneer or look down on the increasing number of visitors but neither does it pander to their every whim like a certain neighbouring Costa.

Its iconic, giant sand dune, the biggest in Europe, is the texture of icing sugar, alongside its waters of Caribbean blue.

Add the spectacular ruins of the Iberian Peninsula’s biggest Roman city Baelo Claudia – complete with walls, aqueducts, baths, temples, forums, villas and more, and you are in for a treat.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN TARIFA

Hurricane Hotel, Tarifa

ONE of Andalucia’s most emblematic hotels, the Hurricane (www.hotelhurricane.com) is to Tarifa, what the Alhambra is to Granada.

A long-time institution, it sits pole position right on the beach beside umbrella pines and with incredible views in all directions. With charming landscaped gardens, lovely pool and a horseriding centre, gym and spa, you will find few better places to relax on a winter’s break. And best of all, it has an amazing chiringuito buffet, perfect for lunch, and a wonderful candle-lit restaurant for night times.

Across the road, its sister hotel Punta Sur (www.hotelpuntasur.com) is perhaps better for families, with its own tennis court, massive oval pool and a restaurant with a pizza oven.

Finally, Valdevaqueros (book via www.hotelhurricane.com), a mile up the coast is the coolest hang out of all, a great place to eat, watch all the action and even sleep the night.